tevo_tarantula_i3_3d_printer

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tevo_tarantula_i3_3d_printer [09.12.2018 16:52] – [Setting the Z Axis Sensor offset] Pascal Sutertevo_tarantula_i3_3d_printer [16.02.2020 23:14] – [Slicer Software and Settings] Pascal Suter
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 that's quite easy: just download the latest Arduino IDE and install it. a little warning here, the one included in the Ubuntu Repos is very old.. for Ubuntu 17.04 there was still a version 1.0.x of the arduino IDE, Marlin currently needs at least 1.6.x to work and you currently can download 1.8.3 from the Arduino webpage. then double check that your control board has the Atmel 2650 chip on it and select the board accordingly in the Arduino IDE. now you can simply open the Marlin.ino file, change your config settings and hit upload.  that's quite easy: just download the latest Arduino IDE and install it. a little warning here, the one included in the Ubuntu Repos is very old.. for Ubuntu 17.04 there was still a version 1.0.x of the arduino IDE, Marlin currently needs at least 1.6.x to work and you currently can download 1.8.3 from the Arduino webpage. then double check that your control board has the Atmel 2650 chip on it and select the board accordingly in the Arduino IDE. now you can simply open the Marlin.ino file, change your config settings and hit upload. 
 ==== Settings ==== ==== Settings ====
-I will upload my config here once i got it all working, so you can simply compare my settings with yours, and i will explain some parameters below i had some difficulty to understand or to get right+To get started, you can download my {{ :tevo:configuration.h}} and compare it to the defaults. I recommend you really read the comments and figure out yourself if you need some settings to be different from mine. This file is for Marvin 1.1.9 and a 20x20cm Tevo with BL Touch Sensor and the LP-Fanduct to mount it. I will explain some parameters below i had some difficulty to understand or to get right
 ==== Auto Bed Leveling ==== ==== Auto Bed Leveling ====
 There are many options as to how the auto bed leveling should work. I went with the Bilinear option which will just check 4 corners and then calculate the bed surface. As for my probe i selected a FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE which is what I have.  There are many options as to how the auto bed leveling should work. I went with the Bilinear option which will just check 4 corners and then calculate the bed surface. As for my probe i selected a FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE which is what I have. 
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 In order to adjust the Z axis, i first sent G28 to auto home all axis, then G29 to autolevel the bed, i then used ''G1 Z0'' to move the Z axis to the 0 position. I put a sheet of paper under the Nozzle and set my first guess what the offset could be. it's better if you set your offset too little so that your extruder won't crash into the printbed  In order to adjust the Z axis, i first sent G28 to auto home all axis, then G29 to autolevel the bed, i then used ''G1 Z0'' to move the Z axis to the 0 position. I put a sheet of paper under the Nozzle and set my first guess what the offset could be. it's better if you set your offset too little so that your extruder won't crash into the printbed 
-  M851 Z-0.6+  M851 Z-0.8
 Now run ''G28'' agin and go again to ''G0 Z0''. Repeat this process until the nozzle makes contact with the paper so that the paper can still slide in and out from underneath the nozzle, then increase the offset by another -0.1mm  Now run ''G28'' agin and go again to ''G0 Z0''. Repeat this process until the nozzle makes contact with the paper so that the paper can still slide in and out from underneath the nozzle, then increase the offset by another -0.1mm 
  
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 ===== Slicer Software and Settings ===== ===== Slicer Software and Settings =====
-Whatever software you are using, make sure that the Start GCode contains G28 and G29 for auto hight and auto bed leveling. +Whatever software you are using, make sure that the Start GCode contains G28 and G29 for auto height and auto bed leveling. 
  
 +for more detailed settings see [[How I 3d Print - Slicer settings]]
  
 +===== Dead Stepper driver - workaround =====
 +i recently printed a quite tall structure over night. it tunred out, that the screws of the z-axis wheels did not clear the mounting bracket for the extruder. as a result of the z-axis missed most of its steps during several hours and was jammend. 
 +sadly it turned out that after this the Z-axis stepper driver was broken. when i moved the z-axis the stepper would randomly move forward or backward or just humm. i've tried to adjust the potentiometer but with no luck. 
 +
 +as a workaround i changed the marlin config, so that it's now using the E1 (second extruder, which i don't have) stepper driver in place of the z-axis. i could simply move the molex connector over from Z to E1 and continue to print. 
 +
 +to implement the workaround, i had to start my Arduino IDE, open the Marlin project and edit the ''pins_RAMPS.h'' file. i searched for the Z- and E1 axis and swapped the values for the pins, they now look like this: 
 +<code>
 +#define Z_STEP_PIN         36
 +#define Z_DIR_PIN          34
 +#define Z_ENABLE_PIN       30
 +#ifndef Z_CS_PIN
 +  #define Z_CS_PIN         44
 +#endif
 +
 +#define E1_STEP_PIN        46
 +#define E1_DIR_PIN         48
 +#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      62
 +#ifndef E1_CS_PIN
 +  #define E1_CS_PIN        40
 +#endif
 +</code>
 +i then re-compiled and uploaded the firmware and could print right away. 
  • tevo_tarantula_i3_3d_printer.txt
  • Last modified: 23.02.2020 12:03
  • by Pascal Suter